China South of the Clouds

This pancake, which is made in the Long Feng Muslim Restaurant in Shaxi, is made using the area’s very flavorful purple potatoes and a light, orange chili powder that has a slightly smokey flavor. In the absence of these specialized ingredients, this recipe should be made using low-starch, flavorful potatoes. A pinch of Spanish paprika, added to the chile powder, might also help achieve a more authentic flavor. When cooked, the potatoes along the edges of the pancake will be crisp, but those in the center will remain soft and pliant.

1 1/2 lbs potatoes

1 tsp. salt

1/3 cup vegetable oil

2 tsp. ground dried chile

1 1/2 tsp. sesame seeds

pinch MSG (optional)

2 tsp. finely sliced chives

1. Wash and peel potatoes, setting them aside in a bowl of cool water to keep them from browning. Using a mandolin, shred the potatoes into pieces approximately 1/8 inch wide. Sprinkle salt onto potatoes, mix together with your hands to distribute, and let sit 5 minutes.

2. In a well-seasoned or non-stick wok, heat the oil over medium heat until it begins to smoke. Pour potato mixture into wok, and use a spatula to flatten it into an even disk along the bottom and sides of the wok. (The pancake should be about 11 inches in diameter.) Cook potatoes over medium heat for approximately 10 minutes, running the spatula along the bottom of the pan once or twice to ensure they’re not sticking.

3. When the potato shreds are cooked through and the bottom layer has turned golden, raise the heat to high, and cook for another couple minutes, until the bottom potatoes have begun to crisp. Carefully flip the pancake over. (If it comes apart while flipping, or you need to flip it in two pieces, simply use the spatula to mash it back together.) Continue to cook over high heat for 3-5 minutes, until the other side of the pancake is golden brown and crisp.

4. Carefully slide or flip the pancake onto a large plate, draining the excess oil back into the wok. Sprinkle the pancake with the chile, sesame seeds, and, if you want to be really authentic, MSG, then top with the chives. Use the back of a spoon to press the toppings into the potatoes. Before serving, cut the pancake into chess board-like square pieces.